Knitting machine



July 30, 1935. H E HQUSEMAN l 2,009,694

KNITTING MACHINE Original Filed March 16, 1931 5 Sheets-Shea?I l /ZMWya? /777' iwf/6.

juy 30, 1935. ||l El HOUSEMAN 2,009,694

KNITTING MACHINE Original Filed March 16,l 1931 5 Sheets-Sheet 2 Hara/aff. /z/aasmar wfiaj July v30, 1935.

H. E. HoUsr-:MAN

KNITTING MACHINE origina Filed March 16, 1931 5 Sheets-Sheet I5 -LII/7/asema/z @T1 WM Patented July 30, 1935 PATi-:NTA OFFICE KNITTINGMACHINE Harold E. Houseman, EdgeMoor, Del., assignor to Standard-TrumpBros. Machine Company, Wilmington, Del., a corporation of DelawareOriginal application March `16, 1931, Serial No.

522,864. Divided and this application September 24, 1931, Serial No.564,780Y v 19 Claims.

This invention relates broadly to a knitted fabric and a method andmachine for producing the same. More specifically it relates to astocking embodying the fabric and a method and machine for making thestocking.

This application is a division of my application Serial Number 522,864,filed March 16, 1931 in which the fabric and method are now claimed.

Heretofore it has been found desirable for various reasons to producestockings of a type said to have a split foot in which the instep,beingV visible when low shoes are worn, is composed of suitable yarn oryarns generally similar to those used for the leg portion of thestocking, While the sole is composed of different yarn, sometimes undyedto cater to certain hygienic ideas, but in general of heavier orstronger character to better withstand wear. Such stockings generallyalso involve a split fabric above the heel, in which the rear of the legabove the heel is composed of wear resisting yarn where a low shoe wouldtend to destroy the fabric, this arrangement involving the so-calledhigh splice.

The machines heretofore used to produce such stockings involve twofeeds, generally designated the sole and instep feeds in view of theirparticular functions, each of the feeds being associated with the usualknitting cams, etc. k.In such machines the upper leg is knit from a yarnat the main feed, but the lower leg, at the high splice, and the instepare knit from a similar yarn at the instep feed. Desirably, of course,the same appearance should be maintained continuously from the leg intothe instep but since two yarn supplies are necessarily used, and color,weight and texture are rarely duplicated to such degree that differencesescape notice, there is almost always a noticeable line of demarcationat the place where change from one yarn to the 40 other occurs. Besidesthis, the change is further made noticeable by any slight variations insizes of loops occurring because of varying tensions, differentadjustments of cams, etc. Obviously, this change of feeds also makes itdiilicult if not impossible to continue a design from the leg into theinstep.

In an application of Wilbur L. Houseman, Serial Number 511,949, filedJanuary 29, 1931, there is disclosed a fabric, more specifically astocking, and a method and machine for its production which has portionsformed by both rotary and reciprocatory knitting in which the .same yarnor yarns are continued from one portion into the other without a break;or specilically, in which a design formed by normal and reverse platingis so continued Without interruption.

It is the broad object ofthe present invention to provide a fabrichaving rotary and reciprocatory portions involving designs in eachformed by selective floating of a yarn or yarns normally appearing inplating relationship.

It is a further object of the invention to pro.- vide both a method andmachine for effecting this result and overcoming the diflicultiesinher-A ent in the manipulation of yarns with the production of floatdesigns during reciprocation. Specifically it is the object of theinvention to modify the machine of the Wilbur L. Houseman applicationabove referred to for the production of float designs, various featuresof this machine being retained.

The accomplishment of these and otherl objects will be apparent from thefollowing description read in conjunction with the accompanying drawingsin which:

Fig. 1 is a planview, partly in section, of a portion of a machineembodying the invention;

Fig. 2 is a plan View of certain details, parts being omitted forclearness;

Fig. 3 is an inside development of the needle cams;

Fig. 4 is a radially exaggerated development of'a. plan view of thesaine showing the positions assumed by the cams during reciprocatoryformation of patterns;

Fig. 5 is a diagrammatic view of the butt ends of the various types ofneedles used in the machine;

Fig. 6'is a side elevation of the upper center cam and its associatedparts; and

Fig. '7 is an elevation of a stocking embodying featuresV of theinvention.

The illustrated. machine is of the rotary needle-stationary cam typehaving independently 40 movable latch needles and involves variousdetails of construction disclosed in the above mentioned Wilbur L.Houseman application and my Patent 1,725,275, dated August 20, 1929 towhich reference may be madev forA such details, only so much beingillustrated in the present disclosure asis necessary for anunderstanding of the invention. The needle cylinder 2 mounts vtheneedles in the usual fashion, these needles, designated generally bythenumeral 4 being of various different types hereafter referred to.Broadly speaking, the needlesare arranged in a series consisting of twosemicircles one of which is ,composed of longt butt needles, and theother of which is composed of short butt needles with the exception ofthe two end ones which have intermediate length butts, certain of theneedles being further provided with shoulders of different radial extentfor the determination of patterns. The needle cylinder is driven throughthe usual clutch connections for both rotation and oscillation, one ofthe intermediate driving gears being illustrated at 6 in Fig. 1.

The needles cooperate in the formation of stitches with the usualsinkers moved by suitable cams in the proper wave. The needles take yarnat two feeds in the present machine designated generally as 8 and I8,the former of which will hereafter be called the instep feed and thelatter the sole feed in View of their respective most distinctivefunctions. These feeds are angularly spaced 112.5 apart, the directionof rotation of the needle cylinder during rotary knitting beingcounterclockwise as viewed in plan.

Referring particularly to Figs. 3 and 4 in which the needle cams areillustrated in developed elevation and exaggerated plan respectively,the cams at the instep feed 8 comprise the upper center cam I2, thelower center cam I4, deector cams I8 and I8, needle depressing cams 28and 22, stitch cams 24 and 26, xed cams 32 and 34, and end cams 36 and38'. Similarly the cams at the sole feed comprise the upper center cam48, the lower center cam 42, stitch cams 44 and 46, end cams 48 and 58,and guard cam 52. A switch cam 54, angularly located as illustrated inFig. 2 is urged downwardly by a spring 56 and is designed to engageonlylong butt needles to elevate them when they move in one directionbut to yield to permit them to pass when they move in the oppositedirection. A main switch cam 58 is also provided, this cam being carriedby a shaft journalled and slidable in a suitable bearing and carrying apin 68 engaging a slot 62 in the bearing so that when urged to loweredposition by a spring 63 it will occupy an cuter position wherein itengages long butt needles only but when raised by the action of cam 66on arm 64 it will move inwardly to engage the butts of all the needles.The cam 66 is carried by an arm 61 moved by the main cam disc asillustrated in the application referred to above, this arm also carryinga cam 68 operable when moved inwardly to eifect depression of loweringpicker 'I8 to an inoperative position between the levels occupied by thebutts of active and inactive needles as they reach its location. It willbe noted that the lowering picker is diametrically opposite the feed I8.

The usual raising pickers 12 and 'I4 are associated with the sole feed.

At the instep feed are located a plurality of yarn `fingers 'I6 arrangedto carry the yarns required in the knitting operation, certain or all ofthese fingers having two or more eyes so that each may carry theplurality of yarns to be associated in plating relationship during theformation of designs. Similar yarnrfingers 'I8 are provided at the solefeed. Both sets of fingers may be controlled by the usual devices to beselectively moved into or out of operation.Y

In the present machine, the upper center cam I2, instead of being fixed,as is usual, is carried by a. slide 'I1 mounted for radial movements andnormally urged inwardly by a suitable spring. This slide at its innerend is provided with a bevel I9 engageable by a plunger 88 which, whenengaged by a suitable cam on the main cam disc, moves upwardly forcingtheV slide outwardly against the tension of the spring.

Slide 82 carries cams I6 and 24 and slide 84 carries similar cams I8 and26, these slides being urged radially inwardly by springs 98 and 92 topositions wherein adjustable stop screws 86 and 88 therein engageupwardly extending ears 94 and 96 of rocking lever 98, pivoted asindicated at |88 and arranged to be rocked to move the slidessimultaneously outwardly by the engagement therewith of the upper end ofa plunger |82 movable upwardly by suitable cams on the main cam disc.

The ear 94 is provided with an adjustable stop screw |84 engageable bythe end of a lever |86 urged in a clockwise direction by a spring |88,this lever having pivoted thereto arms I|2 backed by adjustable stopscrews I|8 and having beveled ends engageable selectively by stackedlevers I I4 cooperating with levers ||6 carried by the arm II8 which isoscillated by the eccentric groove |24 formed in the gear 6. A lever |22pivoted to the frame carries members |28 engaging theK levers IIS, thislever |22 being selectively moved to various positions by engagement bylugs of various heights on the pattern chain |28 trained over thesprocket' wheel |26 to which intermittent movements are imparted by theusual pawl carried by the arm I I8. The selective mechanism justindicated is not described in full since details thereof are identicalwith those fully described in myprior Patent 1,725,275 mentioned above.So far as the present invention is concerned it is merely necessary topoint out that radial movements of greater or less extent are impartedsimultaneously to the slides 82 and 84 through the action of the patternchain, these movements being effective to produce patterning as will behereinafter pointed out. Movements imparted by the plunger |82 areindependent of those imparted by the pattern chain and are not forpatterning purposes.

The mechanism controlling the pattern chain to insure the properbeginning of the pattern producing cycle of operation at the initiationof the knitting of each stocking is fully described in my Patent#1,805,697 dated May 19, 1931, and is merely indicated herein.

Slides |38 and |32'carry the cams 44 and 46, these slides beingyieldingly urged inwardly by springs |34 and |36, against the tension ofwhich they are independently movable at proper times by the usualconnections actuated by cams on the main cam disc. The various types ofneedles used in the machine are illustrated in Fig. 5 and comprise long,intermediate and short butt needles shown in rows L, I and Srespectively, each of these types including needles having shoulders ofvarious lengths illustrated in columns A, B, and C and needles withoutshoulders illustrated in column D. As already outlined, there are in theneedles circle two intermediate butt needles, located diametricallyopposite each other, there being short butt needles on one side of thediameter so defined and long butt needles on the other side. All ofthese needles are formed either without shoulders or with shoulders ofvarious lengths as illustrated in Fig. 5. While there are four possibleintermediate butt needles illustrated, it will be understood that at anytime only two are used, the shoulder arrangements thereof beingdetermined by their location in the make-up of a pattern. While threelengths of shoulders are illustrated, either more or less maybeprovided.

The operation of the machine will be rendered clearer by a preliminaryconsideration of the stocking to be produced thereby, this stocking, in

a preferred form being illustrated in Fig. 7. Ihis stocking comprises aribbed top a, produced-as usual on a rib machine and transferred to theneedles of the plain fabric machine, an extended vtop b, which maybeomitted, consisting of several circularly knit courses, the leg ccircularly knitted andin the present instance composed of fancy fabriclproduced by selective plating and floating, this fabric extendingcontinuously into the instep and the upper part of the foot as indicatedat e .and lz, thehigh splice d, the heel f, the split sole y,

the advanced toe i, which` may be omitted if desired, consisting ofseveral circularly knit courses, the toe k, and the loopers rounds Z.The parts knitted at the sole feed, particularly the high splice, may beformed of a plurality of yarns in plated relationship.

The radially exaggerated development of Fig. 4 will make clear thepositions of the stationary cams and the ranges of movements ofthemovable cams. In this gurerthe lines L, I, S, A, B, C and D indicaterespectively the outward extents of the butts and the shoulders and theface of the needle cylinder. The fixed cams 2e, E2, 32, i6 and 52 extendinwardly to a positionbetween the lines S and A so that they are atalltimes in position to engage all of the needle butts but clear all theshoulders. The lower iixed cams |55, 38, d8 and 53 may extend inwardlyto the needle cylinder preferably forming a portion of the bearingtherefor. Movable cams lf2 and fifi have a range of movement under theaction of thecams referred to above between an extreme inner positionbetween the lines S and A and outer positions in which they clear thebutts of all of the needles, that is, outside the line L. The movablecam I2 may occupy alternative positions in one of. which it extendsbetween the lines S and A so as to engage all of the needle butts and inthef other of which it extends between the iirie-s and S so as to engagethe long and intermediate butts but escape engagement with the shortbutts. The cams associated with the slides 32 and 31| movesimultaneously under the action oi both the plunger I 62 and the patternchain. The extreme louter position of these carries the cams 24' and 26outwardly of the line L so that they escape engagement with all of thebutts. Thecams 24 and however during operation move between the linesY Sand D so that they engage either all of the needle butts and none of theshoulders or Velse shoulders of various lengths, the pattern chaindetermining the movements between these limiting positions. The cams land I3 are so located that even when. the cams 24 and 26 are in theirextreme operating outward positions these upper deflector cams will atall times engage the `long butt needles. As clearly illustrated in thisfigure, the switch cam 54 engages the long butts only. Likewise theswitch cam 53 engages the long butts only when it is in lower position.However, when it is in raised position it moves inwardly dueto the pinand slot arrangement illustrated in Fig. 2 so that it will lie betweenthe lines `S and A and thus engage the butts of' all of the needles butescape engagement with the shoulders.

When the machine is in stationary conditionV prior to the beginning of acycle of operation the needles'are levelled to receive the rib top. Atthis time all of the yarn iingers 'it and 'i3 are raised out of action,and cams I5, I8, 24, 2t, 44 and 45 are fully retracted to disengage allof the needle butts, the retraction of slides 82 and 84 being effectedby the rise of plunger |62 under the actionof a cam on the main camdisc, and the retraction of slides |30 and |32 being similarly effectedby plunger connections acted upon by cams on the main cam disc.

to engage all needle butts (but clear all shoulders) ,and loweringpicker 'I0 occupies its inoperative position intermediate the levelsassumedlby the butts of raised and lowered `needles during operation,cams 66 and 68 occupying, at this time, inner positions.. The pickers 12and 'I4 ride the butts. The pattern chain isstationary in a positiondetermining the beginning of a patterning cycle.

Following the transfer of a rib top a. to the needles, the machine isstarted to knit a few rounds' of yarn similar to that in the rib top toform the portion b' known as the extended top. Upon .starting of themachine, the main cam disc is advanced one step. Cams 2d, 2i, I and I8are allowed to move inwardly in the usual fashion, rst dropping againstthe short butts and then subsequently moving on inwardly as the longbutt 'needles pass through, this inward movement being limited by theposition of the plunger |02 which is now engaging a cam of less heighton the cam disc. These needle cams now occupy positions between lines Sand Ain Fig. 4 so that while they engage butts of all lengths they clearall shoulders. It may be now pointed out that the inner ends ofstationary cams 20, 22, 32 and 34 also occupy the same positions, thesame being true of cams 40 and 52.

The cams d@ and 46 remain retracted although, if desired, the cam may bepermitted to move inwardly to a position between lines S and A so toengage the butts of all of the needles and impart an upward wavethereto. 'I'his operation is similar to that of the corresponding camillustrated in the application of Wilbur L. Houseman, Serial Number'511,949 referred to above, the object of the wave being to avoidclimbing of the loops at the idle sole feed at the time the sinkers areretracted. Due to this action the loops occupy a lower position on theneedles and when the needles are again lowered by the top center cam 4Gthe fabric loops are drawn down against the stitch drawing edges of thesinkers and the nebs are Well above the loops as they move in.

The yarn finger 'i5 which carries extended top yarn is dropped inadvance of the irst needle to knit which will be the advancing mediumbutt suture needle. Thereafter knitting takes place on all of theneedles at the instep feed to produce the extended top. During thisoperation the switchcam 53 remains raised so as notrto eiect theoperation. The cam 54 swings up during each revolution to allow longbutt needles to pass, the motion of the needles during revolution beingfrom right to left as viewed in Figs. 3 and 4.

After the extended top is completed the main cam disc is advancedanother step and rotary knitting ofthe upper leg starts. As the movementof the cam disc-takes placethe extended top yarn linger is withdrawnandanother finger, ora plurality of fingers carrying yarns suitable for theleg, are dropped into action at the vinstep feed. Ii striping is to takeplace the ngers originally dropped into action may be replaced by othersduring formation of the leg in the usual manner, for example, by themechanism illustrated in my Patent Number 1,769,580.

During this period the fingers at the' sole feed rremain inactive andthe switch cam 58 and cams 44 and `fi'retain their previous-positions.Ac-

Switch cam 58 is now raised and in inner position soas to bereadyPatterning is now commenced, being accomplished in the present instanceby selective platingV and floating of the plating yarn. From thefollowing description of operation it will be obvious that a very largevariety of designs may be readily produced by the proper selection ofshouldered needles and pattern cam.

As the main cam disc advances the pattern chain |28 is put intooperation being stepped intermittently by movements of the arm I I8. Atthe same time the plunger |02 rides off its cam so that the cams 24 and2S are free to move inwardly against the needle cylinder if suchmovement is permitted by the lugs on the pattern chain. As the knittingnow takes place the cams 24 and 26 move inwardly and outwardly so as tobe at all times in position to engage all of the butts but selectivelyengage or clear the various size shoulders. The two yarns extending fromthe fingers 'I6 occupy different paths so that while both yarns will beengaged by the needlespassing through a normal knitting wave, if any ofthe needles is prematurely depressed, it will engage one of the yarnsand escape engagement with the other so that the latter will float,.thislatter yarn during normal operation appearing on the face of the fabricin plating relationship to the one which is solely knit upon theoccurrence of the premature depression. The operation of the arrangementin this respect is entirely similar to that described in my prior Patent1,725,275 and accordingly need not be described in greater detailherein.

Following the rotary knitting of the leg, the main cam disc againadvances and reciprocatory knitting begins for the formation of the highsplice reciprocation taking place through 360. Since the pattern is tobe continued the yarns previously being knit at the instep feed retaintheir active locations. The finger 'I8 whichcarries the high splice yarnor yarns is lowered into action. As the cams 24 and 26 must remainactively engaging shoulders so as to produce patterns, they cannot bewithdrawn as in the Wilbur L. Houseman application to clear the shortbutt needles which now must not knit at the instep feed, and accordinglyother means must be used to render the short buttneedles inactive atthis feed. To this end, the topcenter cam I2 is withdrawn to clear theshort butt needles by the rise of plunger 80 under the Aaction of asuitable cam on the main disc, the position of cam I2 being such that itcontinues to engage long and intermediate butt needles. Accordingly, theshort butt needles ride over both cams 24 and 26 in moving in bothdirections. The short butt needles are depressed by cams 20 and 22.r v

Cam 44 now moves into action joining cam 46 which is preferably alreadyin action for the reasons pointed out above. Switch 'cam 58 is loweredby the partial retraction of lever 61 and simultaneously moves outwardlyso that it will engage and raise long butt needles but miss short andintermediate butt needles. The movement of lever 6T is, however, partialso that the lowering picker 'I0 retains its inactive position, the cam68 being so designed'asvnot to release it upon such partial movement.The pattern chain continues to move without interruption. Because ofreciprocatory knitting the usual take up sweeps through which the yarnsat both feeds pass are rendered active.

Assuming, rst, acounterclockwise reciprocation of the needle cylinder,the intermediate butt needle which leads the long butt needles rides upcam 26 and is depressed by center cam I2 and stitch cam 24 taking eitherone or both yarns at Vthe instep feed. The taking of the yarns dependsof course on the type of shoulder the needle carries and the position atthat time of the cam 24. It then rides up cam 36, passes switch cam 58by which it is not engaged and follows the short butt needles up overcam 46 and below cams 4I) and 44 taking the high splice yarn at the solefeed and thereby forming a suture between the yarns at the two feeds.The long butt needles follow this suture needle through the cams at theinstep feed and also take one or both yarns at that place. However, thelong butts do engage the switch cam 58 and are raised thereby so thatthey ride above thev cams at the sole feed. The long butt needles arebrought down into action at the instep feed by the cams I6 and I8.

The intermediate butt needle which follows the long butt needles andprecedes the short butt needles starts from a position adjacent switchcam 58 and rides up the end of cam 46 until it engages the picker 'I4 bywhich it is raised whereupon it follows the long butt needles throughthe cams at the-instep feed taking one or more yarns there and finallyreaching a position adjacent the switch cam 58 without being raisedthereby. The short butt needles following this intermediate butt needleride over cam 46, beneath the picker 14, are moved downwardly by cams 40and 44 to take the high splice yarn, pass switch cam 54 withoutengagement, ride upwardly over cam 2G pass cam I2 without engagementtherewith, pass above cam 24, and are then depressed by cam 2U. In viewof the fact that they are not lowered by the cam 24 they do not take anyyarn at the instepfeed.

In a counterclockwise reciprocation a reverse series of events occur. Inthis case the switch cam 54 takes the place of switch cam 58 andlikewise picker l2V lifts the medium butt needle leading the short buttneedles.

From the above it will be seen that the yarns at the instep feed areselectively knitted by the long butt needles and both of the medium buttneedles on each reciprocation with the formation of either plating orfloating in accordance with 'the pattern determined by their shouldersvand thek pattern chain. The high splice yarn at the sole feed is knittedby the short butt needles and that medium butt needle which leads thelong butt needles in that stroke. It is to be observed that thisalternate suture operation of the medium butt needles is desirable sinceit forms a substantial but non-bulky seam by the avoidance of excessiveyarns in the loops thereof. Since the patterning occurs at the instepfeed there is no break-at the change from rotation to reciprocation.

When the knitting at the heel is to begin the main cam disc is againgiven an intermittent movement and the parts operate to produce the heelin substantially the conventional manner. At this time in order toprevent interruption of the pattern, the pattern chain is stopped in theusual manner by the action of a suitable cam. Cams I6, I8, 24 and 26 arefully withdrawn and yarn linger or lingers 'i6 previously active areraised, this raising being at a point which will cause the yarn or yarnsto knit last on the medium butt which is trailing behind the long buttneedles when the cylinder is traveling in a counterclockwise direction.These yarns may be clamped and out` but are preferably allowed to floatfrom this needle to the raised yarn finger. Cams 44 and 46 remain inaction since the heel is to be knit at the sole feed. The cam 68 remainsin position to retain the lowering picker inactive.

The change to the heel yarn having been made at the sole feed thenarrowing proceeds in the usual manner, the raising pickers 'l2 and 14being operative upon the medium and short butt needles while the longbutt needles are raised out of action. When narrowing has been completedthe cam disc is again stepped around. The only effect of this is tocause lever 6T' to rock further outwardly and permit the lowering picker'l0 to rise and become operative in theu'sual manner to lower theneedles two at a time while the pickers 'l2 and 14 continue to raisethem one at a time.

When the heel is completed the disc again advances, restoring all of theelements to the position occupied during the knitting of the highsplice, the'main yarn or yarns being reintroduced so that the sutureneedle which last knit again resumes knitting while the cylinder travelsin a counterclockwise direction. A suitable sole yarn replaces the heelyarn, the movements of the pattern` chain continuing from the stoppingposition. Since the operation is the same as that aboveidescribed duringthe formation of the high splice it need not be again repeated.

Whenv the sole is completed the cam disc again advances. All fingers 'l5are raised out of action so that withdrawal takes place on the mediumbutt suture needle following the long butt needles while the cylinder istraveling in a counterclockwise direction, while the finger 18 whichcarries the heel yarn is lowered into action to replace the sole yarnnger. Cams I6, I8, 24 and 28 are Withdrawn. Switch cam 58 is raised. Theneedle cylinder rotates. Accordingly, all of the needles knit at thesole feed to form the advanced toe z'.

The patternchain Inow continues to advance'Y untilit is arrested, asfully described in my Patl ent No. 1,805,697. Stopping of the chain willoccur at some time dur'ing the nisln'ng of the stocking. The chain thusbecomes ready to properly start the pattern in a subsequent stocking.`

After the formation of the several courses form- I ing the advanced toethe disc again moves bringing the parts into position to perform thenarrowing'and then the widening for the toe, the motion of the needlecylinder again becoming reciprocatory. The operations in both narrowingand widening resemble those occurring in the formation of the heel andare not therefore `repeated. p

Following the completion of the widening operation, rotary knitting isresumed, the parts being in the same positions as in the formation of toeffect levelling and the machine stops.rv The cycle is-thus completedand a new rib-top may be transferred to the machine.

During the above cycle of operation various different yarns have beeninserted at both feeds. At the instep feed, for example, there is firstinserted the extended top yarn which is of com'- paratively` lightweight. Similar changes take place at the sole feed, the high splice andsole yarns `being generally lighter than thevyarn or yarns constitutingthe heel, toe, etc. Accordingly, in order to produce proper results itis desirable that various cam adjustments bev provided. Such adjustmentsmay preferably take the form of those illustrated in the application ofWilbur L. Houseman referred to above to which reference may be made fordetails.

It willbe clear that numerous `changes may be made in details ofconstruction and also by the replacement of certain mechanism bynonequivalent but analogous mechanism without departing from the spiritof the invention.

In the following claims for simplicity of eX- pression the term instephas been used to apply to theentire front and top split portion of astocking. That is, it refers broadly to such portions of a stocking asare designated at either` c or h, or both, in Fig.y '7. Also, wherereference is made to a common or same yarn it will be understood thatportions of yarn from the same source are indicated.

What I claim and desire to protect by Letters Patent is:

l. A knitting machine including a circular series of needles,twofeeds,velements cooperating with the needles at the feeds to formlstitches, means for imparting relative reciprocatory move-- ments to theneedles and feeds, and means for effecting manipulation 0f yarns at atleast one of the feeds during reciprocation to produce designs byselective plating and iioating, said last means including devices forprematurely selectively depressing needles during movements in bothdirections relatively to yarns fed from stationary guiding means, thedepressed needles failing to engage the same yarn in both movements. Y

2. A knitting machine including a circular series of needles, two feeds,elements cooperating with the needles at the feeds to form stitches,means for imparting relative reciprocatory movements to the needles andfeeds, and means for effecting manipulation of yarns at at least one ofthe feeds during reciprocation to produce designs by selective platingand floating, said last means including devices for selectivelymanipulating needles to move them relatively to yarns fed fromstationary guiding means to cause them to fail to engage the same yarnduring movements in both directions.

3. A knitting machine includingy a circular series of needles, elementscooperating with theV needles in the `formation of stitches, means forpresenting yarns to the needles at spaced feeds, cams associated withthe feeds for actuating the needles and elements during relative rotaryor reciprocatory movements, driving means for effecting such rotary orreciprocatory movements, controlling devices for effecting, first,rotary movements while only one feed is active to produce one portion offabric, and, secondly, recip, rocatory movements While both feeds areactive to produce a split portion of fabric having two parts, and meansfor effecting manipulation of yarns at that, feed which is active duringrotation to produce patterns by plating and floating during both rotaryand reciprocatory knitting, said last means including a plurality ofdevices one of which is operable to selectively manipulate needles during movement in one direction to cause them to move relatively toyarns fed from stationary guiding means to fail to engage one yarn andthe other of which is operable to selectively manipulate needles duringmovement in the opposite direction to cause them to move to fail toengage the same yarn, and pattern mechanism controlling said devicessimultaneously whereby a pattern may extend uninterruptedly from arotary into a reciprocatory knit portion of fabric.

4. A knitting machine including a circular series of needles, elementscooperating with the needles in the formation of stitches, means forpresenting yarns to the needles at spaced feeds, cams associated withthe feeds for actuating the needles and elements during relative rotaryor reciprocatory movements, driving means for effecting such rotary orreciprocatory movements, controlling devices for effecting, first,rotary movements while only one feed is active t-o produce one portionof fabric, and, secondly, reciprocatory movements while both feeds areactivevto produce a split portion of fabric having two parts, and meansfor effecting manipulation of yarns at that feed which is active duringrotation to produce patterns by plating and floating during both rotaryand reciprocatory knitting, said last means including a plurality ofdevices one of which is operable to selectively prematurely depressneedles relatively to yarns fed from stationary guiding means duringmovement in one direction to cause them to fail to engage one yarn andthe other of which is operable to selectively prematurely depressneedlesduring movement in the opposite direction to cause them to fail toengage the same yarn, and pattern mechanism controlling said devicessimultaneously whereby a pattern may extend uninterruptedly from arotary into a reciprocatory knit portion of fabric. Y

5. A knitting machine including a circular series of` needles includingsets of long and short butt needles, needles of both sets being providedwith shoulders adjacent the butts and extending outwardly to a less-extent than the short butts, two feeds, elements cooperating-with theneedles at the feeds to form stitches, means for imparting relativereciprocatory movements to the needles and feeds, and means foreffecting manipulation of yarns at at least one of the feeds duringreciprocation to produce designs by selective plating and floating,lsaid last means including cams for prematurely depressing long.

butt needles by engagement with shoulders thereof during movementsinboth directions, the depressed needles failing Vto engage the sameyarn in both movements, and means preventing the depression of shortbutt needles by said cams during such movements.

6. A knitting machine including a circular series of needles includingsets of long and short butt needles, needles of both sets being providedwith shoulders adjacent the butts and extending outwardly to a lessextent than the short butts, two feeds, elements cooperating with theneedles at the feeds to form stitches, means for imparting relativereciprocatory movements to the needles and feeds, and means foreffecting manipulation of yarns at at least one of the feeds duringreciprocation to produce designs by selective plating and floating, saidlast means including cams for prematurely depressing long butt needlesby engagement with shoulders kthereof during movements in bothdirections, the depressed needles failing to engage the same yarn inbothmovements, and means preventing the depression of L short butt needlesby said cams during such movements, said last means including aretractile center cam adapted, in the operation referred to, to engagelong butt needles but not short butt needles.

7. A4 knitting machine including a circular series of needles includingsets of long and short butt needles, needles of both sets being providedwith shoulders adjacent the butts and extending outwardly to a lessextent than the short butts, two feeds, elements cooperating with theneedles at the feeds to form stitches, means for imparting relativerotary and reciprocatory movements to the needles and feeds, and meansfor effecting manipulation of yarns at at least one of the feeds duringboth rotation and reciprocation to produce designs by selective platingand floating, said last means including a pair of cams, one of whichprematurely depresses both long and short butt needles during rotationby engagement with shoulders thereof, and both of which prematurelydepress only long butt needles by engagement with shoulders thereofduring reciprocation, whereby in both cases the prematurely depressedneedles fail to engage a yarn.

8. A lknitting machine including a circular series of needles includingsets of long and short butt needles, needles of both sets being providedwith shoulders adjacent the butts and extending outwardly to a lessextent than the short butts, two feeds, elements cooperating with theneedles at the feeds to form stitches, means for imparting relativerotary and reciprocatory movements to the needles and feeds, and meansfor effecting manipulation of yarns at at least one of the feeds duringboth rotation and reciprocation to produce designs by selective platingand floating, said last means including a pair of cams, one of whichprematurely depresses both long and short butt needles during rotationby engagement with shoulders thereof, and both of which prematurelydepress only long butt needles by engagement with shoulders thereofduring reciprocation, whereby in both cases the prematurely depressedneedles fail to engage a yarn, and means preventing the depression ofshort butt needles by said cams during reciprocation,

9. A knitting machine including a circular series of needles includingsets of long and short butt needles, needles of both sets being providedwith shoulders adjacent the butts and extending outwardly to a lessextent than the short butts, two feeds, elements cooperating with theneedles at the feeds to form stitches, means for imparting relativerotary and reciprocatory movements to the needles and feeds, and meansfor effecting manipulation of yarns at at least one of the feeds duringboth rotation and reciprocation to produce designs by selective platingand floating, said last means including a pair of cams, one ofwhich'prematurely depresses both long and short buttv needles duringrotation by engagement With shoulders thereof, and both of whichprematurely depress only long butt needles by engagement with shouldersthereof during reciprocation, whereby in both cases the prematurelydepressed needles fail to engage a yarn, and means preventing thedepression of short butt needles by said cams during reciprocation, saidlast means including a retractile center cam adapted, duringreciprocation, to engage long butt needles but not short butt needles.

10. A knitting machine including a circular series of needles includingsets of long and short butt needles, needles of both sets being providedwith shoulders adjacent the butts and extending outwardly to a lessextentthan Vthe short butts, two feeds, elements cooperating with theneedles at the-feeds to form stitches, means for imparting relativereciprocatory movements to the` needles and feeds, and means foreffecting manipulation of yarns at at least one of the feeds duringreciprocation to produce-designs by selective plating and oating, saidlast means includingcams for prematurely depressing long butt needles byengagement with shoulders thereof during movements in both directions,the depressed. needles failing to engage the same yarn in bothmovements, and means preventing the depression of short butt needles bysaid cams duringA such movements, and pattern mechanism forsimultaneously controlling inward and outward movements of said camswhereby they selectively engage shoulders of different lengths,

11. A knitting machine including a circular series of needles includingsets of long and short butt needles, needles of both sets being providedwith shoulders adjacent the butts and extending outwardly to a lessextent than the short butts, two feeds, elements cooperating with theneedles at the feeds to form stitches, means for imparting relativerotary and reciprocatory movements tc the needles and feeds, and meansfor effecting manipulation of yarns at at least one of the feeds duringboth rotation and reciprocation to produce designs by selective platingand floating, said last means including a pair of cams, one of whichprematurely depresses both long and short butt needles during rotationby engagement with shoulders thereof, and both of which prematurelydepress only long butt needles by engagement with shoulders thereofduring reciprocation, whereby in both cases the prematurely depressedneedles fail to engage a yarn, and pattern mechanism for simultaneouslycontrolling inward and outward movements of said cam whereby theyselectively engage shoulders of different lengths.

12. A knitting machine including a circular series of needles includingsets of long and short butt needles, needles of both sets being providedwith shoulders adjacent the butts and extending outwardly to a lessextent than the short butts, two feeds, elements cooperating with theneedles at the feeds to form stitches, means for imparting relativerecipro-catory movements to the needles and feeds, and means foreffecting manipulation of yarns at at least one of the feeds duringreciprocation to produce designs by selective plating and floating, saidlast means including cams for prematurely depressing long butt needlesby engagement with shoulders thereof during movements in bothdirections, the depressed needles failing to engage the same yarn inboth movements, and means preventing the depression of short buttneedles by said cams during such movements, said cams serving also todraw down long butt needles by engagement with butts thereof to formplated stitches.

13. A knitting machine including a circular series of needles includingsets of long and short butt needles, needles of both sets being providedwith shoulders adjacent the butts and extending outwardly to a lessextent than the short butts, two feeds, elements cooperating with theneedles at the feeds to form stitches, means for imparting relativerotary and reciprocatory movements to the needles and feeds, and meansfor effecting manipulation of yarns at at least one of the feeds duringboth rotation and reciprocation to produce designs by selective plating`and floating, said last means including a pair of cams, one of whichprematurely depresses both long and short butt needles during rotationby engagement with shoulders thereof, and both of which prematurelydepress onlylong butt needles by engagement with shoulders thereofduring reciprocation, f,

whereby in both cases the prematurely depressed needles fail to engage ayarn, said cams serving also to draw down long butt needles byengagement with butts thereof to form plated stitches.

14. A knitting machine including a circular series of needles, elementscooperating with the needles in the'formationof stitches, means forpresenting yarns to the needles at spaced feeds; cams associated withthe feeds for actuating the needles and elements during relative rotaryor reciprocatory movements, drivingmeans for effecting such rotary orreciprocatory movements, controlling devices for effecting, first,rotary movements while only one feed is active to produce one portion offabric, and, secondly, reciprocatory movements while both feeds areactive to produce a split portion of fabric having two parts, aplurality of yarns being presented to the needles at one of said feedsduring reciprocation, and means individual to the 'needles effectiveduring reciprocation to produce selective relative positioning of theneedles and yarns at a point where the needles move to take yarns at thelast named feed to produce patterns by plating and floating duringreciprocatory knitting.

15. A knitting machine including a circular series of needles, elementscooperating with the needles in the formation of stitches, means forpresenting yarns to the needles at spaced feeds, cams associated withthe feeds for actuatingk the needles and elements during relative rotaryor reciprocatory movements, driving means for effecting such rotary orreciprocatory movements, controlling devices for effecting, first,rotary movements while only one feed is active to produce one portion offabric, and, secondly, reciprocatory movements while both feeds areactive to produce a split portion of fabric having two parts, aplurality of yarns being presented to the needles during both rotationand reciprocation at that feed which is active during rotation, andmeans individual to the needles effective during both rotation andreciprocation to produce selective relative positioning of the needlesand yarns at a point where the needles move to take yarns at the lastnamed feed to produce patterns by plating and floating during bothrotary and reciprocatory knitting.

16. A knitting machine including a circular series of needles, twofeeds, elements cooperating with the needles at the feeds to formstitches, means for imparting relative reciprocatory movements to theneedles and feeds, a plurality of yarns being presented to the needlesat one of said feeds during reciprocation, and means individual to theneedles effective during reciprocation to produce selective relativepositioning of the needles and yyarns at a point where the needles moveto take yarns at the last named feed to produce patterns by plating andfloating during reciprocatory knitting.

17. A knitting machine including a circular series of needles, twofeeds, elements cooperating with the needles at the feeds to formstitches, means for imparting relative reciprocatory movements to theneedles and feeds, a plurality of yarns being presented to the needlesat one of said feeds during reciprocation in both directions, and meansindividual to the needles effective during reciprocation to produceselective relative positioning of the needles and yarns at a point Wherethe needles move to take yarns at the last named feed to producepatterns by plating and floating during reciprocatory knitting in bo-thdirections.

18. A knitting machine including a circular series of needles, a. feed,elements cooperating with the needles at the feed to form stitches,means for imparting relative reciprocatory movements to the needles andfeed, and means individual to the needles effective during reciprocationto produce selective relative positioning of the needles and yarns at apoint where the needles move to takeiyarns at said feed to producepatterns by plating and floating during recprocatory knitting.

19. A knitting machine including a circular series of needles, a feed,elements cooperating with the needles at the feed to form stitches,means for imparting relative reciprocatory movements to the needles andfeed, and means individual to the needles effective during reciproton inboth directions te produce selective relative positioning of the needlesand yarns at a point where the needles'move to take yarns at said feedto produce patterns by plating and floating during reciprocatoryknitting in both directions.

HAROLD E. HOUSEMAN.

